Soggy Boggy 4th Greetings

So the joke comes true, here in Western Washington, Summer starts tomorrow.


I took advantage of the half holiday on Friday and simply took the full day off. I had to go in to work today and I knew it would take me at least four hours so it worked well for everyone.


I knew the weather was going to be dreary on Friday but I was determined to see how Kendall Katwalk was faring. Trail reports I read sounded good. I had never visited this trail in the Summer and I knew there were some amazing environments to visit.


I posted about the Kendall Katwalk last September. It was here I found amazing blueberries and mushrooms. I knew this area was also good for views and a thrilling trek across the narrow ledge of the Katwalk itself.


The parking lot was totally empty when I arrived. This surprised me a bit since this hike on the Pacific Crest Trail is popular and a starting place for many backpacking trips. It was so chilly that I pulled out my polar fleece and threw on my rainproof poncho. It was raining that type of rain that does not really fall but simply floats about. Organized fog I call it.


I like being in the open woods on the Cascade Crest. You can see more inside the environment. Here large boulders can act as nurse boulders for trees.

Ferns were everywhere.

There were a lot of birds and in many places the sound of young. Even though it is cold and gray, nature cycles on. In one spot I heard noises that I was not too sure of , so I "pished" to see if I could call in or make some bird movement. Pishing is done with the voice and sounds like a scold call. Many birds will react to the sound by moving or even coming closer. I saw movement of a dark shape and then saw a more familiar Gray Jay. The first dark shape popped up and it was a baby Gray Jay. It sat on a limb near me and started begging, mouth open wings fluttering.

Well I knew my next responsibility. I opened my pack and pulled out my apple. I placed a small bit on my open hand and one adult came over, took it and plugged it into the beggars mouth.

I should not feed them but I cannot resist.

Pressing on I started encountering snow on the trail in open areas. Ahead I could heard a waterfall. I stopped when I finally saw it shooting over the wall of the ridge to my right.

Getting nearer my heart sank. This torrent was on the right side of the trail.

Where the water crossed the trail it was about 7 feet wide. Too far to leap across and there were no handy, flat rocks that were well above the waterline. Near the left edge there were a few usable rocks, but they were right on the edge and there was about a 10 foot drop. I knew enough to turn back then, I hate having wet feet and while I probably could have made it, risk is not my first or middle name. Returning, I immediately encountered two "well-set-up" * men. I told them I was not feeling sprightly for crossing. We chatted about the season and parted ways. Since I did not see them again I assume they made the crossing just fine. Returning to the parking lot there were still no others cars except that of the two men. One (or both) were firefighters!

Ah me. (Oh yes!)

Saturday promised better weather east of the Cascade Crest (as is usual) so I knew I needed to get up early to possibly beat any traffic and get to Esmeralda Basin. I visited this area extensively last July. It is a wonderful wilderness area that is easy to access and presents five different hike options. Each trail visits a different area in or around the basin and each has an ecology different from the other. All have wonderful views of the mountains. When I look upon some of them I always hope to see Mountain Goat.

The relatively flat Esmeralda Basin trail heads north circling Mt. Esmeralda counter clockwise. The prime feature of the basin trail is meadows and bogs filled with wildflowers. I also like that as the trail climbs upward you switchback several times. Each time you cross the same streams and at each level the surrounding ecology is quite different. Right now the lower area is rich with blooming Jeffrey Shooting Stars and Yellow Violets.

I also found Northern Green Bog-orchids. The bog meadows are saturated with water that is running off the hillsides.

Later there will be many other flowers and grasses in bloom. Cottongrass grows here. It looks like a grass stem with a cotton ball on top. I found two Fairslippers. Can you see this orchids little friend?

I hiked about three miles and was reaching an area I had pre-determined to turn back at. I wanted to visit a second trail I had never been on. The DeRoux Trail is two miles south of the Esmeralda trail head and slightly lower in elevation, perhaps 200 feet? What a big difference. The woods here were filled with blooming Vanilla Leaf and solid with Trilliums, which were past blooming. It must have been a sight to see in the previous month. Immediately after leaving my parking area I found Western Spotted Coralroot. These were the nicest examples I have ever seen.

There was a sprinkling of Columbine, asters, and Tiger Lily which I had seen along the North Fork Teanaway Road for the last eight miles in.

Rounding a bend in the trail I passed another bog meadow. I could see the shooting star and appreciated the size of the meadow. I moved on and coming around some trees I glanced into the meadow again. Something here was different.

I carefully picked my way deeper into the meadow and knew I found one of my favorite wildflowers. Here it is still a bit closed and flowers not yet out.

Elephant-head Lousewort. So aptly named. They stood well above the lighter purple shooting stars. Mixed in were the Green and White bog orchids. All told this day I saw five different orchid species. I took my pictures and carefully picked my back out, retracing my previous path.

I pressed on up the trail about two miles and decided that I would call it a day. I need to revisit this whole area in the next few weeks. Ingalls Pass and Iron Peak which form the east wall of the basin are two wonderful areas. Both provide magnificent view of Mt Stewart. Next to Mt Rainier, Stewart is the mountain that I never get tired of looking upon.

Tomorrow is a holiday. I hate being on the road in the afternoon but I cannot say no to a sunny day.

(* "The Curious Sofa" by Ogdred Weary)

Trying to Find the Rainshadow

After Fridays storm I knew my plans for the weekend would need to be quickly altered. Going over to the east side was out of the question. Piles of snow in the mountains. I-5 southbound on Friday afternoon...I think I could walk over the pass faster. A solid parking lot from Tacoma to down past Centralia.

The dry side and the wonderful area in the Columbia Gorge will have to wait.

But I need to find someplace where I could remotely feel protected from the tag end of the storm. Going over to Sequim and the rain shadow was out of the question given the delays in the ferry system. I could catch a rain shadow effect on the arc of Whidbey Island north to the San Juans so I headed north to my current favorite place, Washington Park. I vowed to explore someplace new so I added Deception Pass to my long day.

Driving along Hwy 20 I made a quick stop to collect the usual tulip field shots. They certainly did well in the weather and I am a bit disappointed that there is not a hint of sunshine to make these colors pop.

Washington Park seems to have survived the onslaught of the storm with only a few trees down. I arrived plenty early and made my way out to Green Point. This shoreline is known for its wildflowers. I wondered what would have become of them since it faces full open west right on the water.

The Shooting Stars, for all their delicacy , were magnificent.

Further along the road, the Fawn Lily were a bit rain sodden. I noticed far more Fairyslipper orchids than before. They were in abundance in their usual mossy grove.

I skirted along the south facing Serpentine slope and that is when it started. Snow pellets. I guess not as saturating as rain. So much for protection from the Olympic Rain shadow. I was again struck by how well the flowers, looking so delicate, stood up to the harsh weather of the previous 24 hours.

After passing through the open slope I re-entered the conifer woods. I knew that there was a possibility for Rattlesnake Plantain, an orchid, here. I slowed way down and really looked everywhere.


A tall stalk and bud caught my eye. I stepped a bit closer and then it popped out at me, a Chocolate Lily.

The nodding green bell blends in perfectly with the mossy slope behind it. But what a delight to see what the underside looks like.

I suspect I missed other specimens.

I was totally thrilled, this was a very much hoped for find, a first. I was back on the trail and within a few steps another flower captured me. At first glance I thought it was the Rattlesnake Plantain, but when I got up close, definitely not. A Spotted Coralroot orchid, another first find.

The sunlight filtering through the trees hit this one just right. Notice the raindrops, by now I was pretty damp.

One thing new in the park was the up-tick in bird song. I could hear kinglets, warblers of several kinds and finches all singing. Noticeably missing, however was the sound of Rufous Hummingbird in a large grove of Salmonberry. I heard in the recent weeks about some concern over the Washington population of this rather common hummingbird. No one has stated any thoughts on where their life cycle is failing. These birds are sturdy migrants North to Alaska from Mexico.

I was perfectly content with my visit to Washington Park and wondered what could possibly top it at Deception Pass.

Deception Pass SP is the most heavily visited park in the state. The biggest attraction is the bridge spanning Deception Pass. I personally think this is one of the most "scary" bridges around. Very narrow, VERY high up. There are people walking on narrow sidewalks on both sides. Usually the wind is pretty fierce. Motor homes seem to occupy more that their fair share of the two lanes.

I parked on the south side of the bridge and hiked up from there to Goose Rock. The distance is short and steep through conifer woods. Just the thing to rev up the energy. At the top the area is open and a bald scour. During the ice ages this area was left bare rock. Over time small amounts of dirt have built up. It is not sufficient to support trees like the woodlands below but mosses and grasses along with wildflowers flourish.

There were mats of Kinnikinnick with their pretty pink lantern. This was a widely used medicinal plant. It is a diuretic and was said to have some interesting effects when cut with tobacco.

I found paintbrush and Naked Broomrape, the purple flower. It is a parasite. There is a member of the genus in England that is parasitic on Scotch Broom. Pojar et al suggests we should intorduce that pretty flower here.!!! I agree.

I crossed the bridge to visit the small rocky island that divides the span. I could see trails wandering all over and through my binoculars got a hint that there was something interesting there.

Camas. The most abundant slopes of Common Camas I have seen so far.

I wandered all over and aside from the Camas and many other delights, I found a little bit of Sunshine

Oregon Sunshine

So many people are reluctant to venture out on trails like those on this slope. I am sorry that they might have missed the opportunity to experience the wildflowers up close.

I paused on the bridge to get the usual photos. It is hard to convey how high this bridge is until you get to see the ants on the beach.

and from the beach below you can appreciate the scope of part of the span. This is the south half.

I found this lady on the beach just looking for pretty rocks. Who needs a warm sunny day to enjoy. There were folks out with picnics (including bottles of wine) wearing down vests and jackets.

You just cannot stop loving the outdoors because of a little harsh weather.

The Big Prize

is actually very little, no more than 1 inch long

Fairyslipper Orchid at Washington Park.

I knew I would find one and this is it!