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Friday, July 5, 2013

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 13 Danby Wiske to Osmotherley

Danby Whiske to Osmotherly 10 miles 16 Km 5 hours ~  Danby Whiske - Ingleby Cross - Arncliffe Wood - Mt Grace Priory - Osmotherley  Tonight I stay at Vane House http://www.vanehouse.co.uk/index.html

I thought today's  leg would be a simple and swift one.  It was indeed simple, but not as swift as the times recommended or advised in the route guides.  I pictured myself sleeping in and taking a leisurely stroll, visiting Mt Grace Priory before going into Osmotherly for the evening.  I don't know who the race walker is who did these time measurements.

The land here reminds me of the Skagit area, flat land filled with green farms.  Again, barley and wheat, cows cows cows.  We pass through many fields, right through the crops.

There are crossroads marked with pointers.  Most are contemporary with what is likely some visually standardized design.  Then there is an old painted iron sign like this.

In one farmyard there was another honor box, this time with sport drink.  I found a flyer for a new national trail, the Yorkshire Wolds Way.  This area south from Scarborough promises easier , gentler walking.

In one hamlet the map shows a water tower as a landmark.  This is not what I was expecting.

I had to cross the busy A19, a 4 lane highway.  I could hear  noise a long way off and lost in thought, almost walked into a swarm of bees.  Not cars, the buzzy sound was bees.  The cars came soon enough though.  It struck me today how noisy they are.  For so many days there has been few cars and outside noise that the A19 sounds like roaring.  Even the trains passing down the line we crossed over passed quietly.  I think I counted at least 8 trains passing through in the short time I was in the area of the tracks.  Freight and passenger trains back and forth.  Climbing up Arncliffe, it was jarring to hear the distant freeway.

While planning this trip I paged through the maps over and over.  I remember seeing this page and noticing that it mentions that flapjacks are often for sale at the church hall.  "Nice, pancake feed" I thought.

Today I had a chuckle.  A flapjack is a hybrid of a date bar and a granola bar.  A softish oatmeal / grain mixed any combination of with fruit, nuts , chocolate chips and the like.  Baked and cut into squares

As you can see, the weather is glorious and sunny, warm but not too hot.

The Priory was built in 1398 by the Carthusian order founded by St Bruno.  His order lived as hermits, seeing the world as wicked.  Here in the Priory each monk lived and essentially solitary life, eating alone and meditating in his cell.  Only the Prior was permitted to have contact with the outside world.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Grace_Priory

My map and route book talks about visit in the priory, but sadly the path off the C2C is now marked as a no trespass nature reserve.  These signs must be  respected.  I was disappointed that the path through Arncliffe Woods turned out to be a road and the edges devoid of woodland nature.  I mentioned to the bartender at the pub my disappointment in not being able to get to the priory.  He said even the road way is difficult.

Osmotherly town is a beauty.  There are many stone terraced cottages.  John Wesley preached here and a chapel build in 1754 is the oldest Methodist chapel in the country.  Tomorrow is the village Summer Games.  I don't think I will get to linger too long as the route tomorrow looks not too long ( 10 miles) but somewhat technical with climbing and descending several fells.


  1. Nice post. We may be going to the UK next summer, though whether we'll get to do any hiking is another question. These posts make me eager to feel the trail beneath my feet again ... anywhere.

  2. So many legs of this journey I would eagerly suggest. Osmotherly to Egton Bridge(Whitby), via The Lion is a nice diverse couple of days.

    You cannot go wrong with anything out of Grasemere ( as home base)

    Kirkby Stephen to Richmond via Keld Lodge and the Mining high route Wild and historic