Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 7 Le Colorado Provencal

Distance 12Km 5 1/2 hour Gain 825m descent 840m

This is a potentially messy day.  I headed out from the village of Saignon northeast towards Rustrel.  Today saw a lot of agriculture fields with Lavender and grapes again the mainstay crop.

The weather started overcast with a chance of sprinkles.  I opted to not wear my sunshirt, as no sun was to be seen.

I met a few friends along the way

The dog joined me, without invitation, about 1/2 hour walking.  She clearly knew where I was going.  She would trot ahead and often she would be standing at a trail junction.  She almost always had the correct trail selected for me.  Above we were at the north side of the ocher site.

Winding and climbing up the Colorado there are great cliff views and the landscape is dominated by Ochre.  This soft red rock contains iron oxide and for centuries have been used for making pigments.  Its wonderful pigment properties are brought into the forefront when trip notes state that any clothing staining should be brushed out, not rinsed or washed out.  I have to imagine the folks around the area know what hikers have been up to when they demonstrate their stain marks.  A slip or fall is going to leave a mark in more ways than one.

The footing was like walking in semi-soft sand.  The colors ranged from pale buff to deep pumpkin orange.  Occasionally there were dark purple streaks in the banks.

I managed the whole trip without a trip or slip.  The rain started just after the dog joined me.  As most of my walk was in the woods, I got no more damp than I would on a hot, sunny day.

I made great time, even though I moved slowly.  Spotting birds, listening to their song.  Looking for bugs and new flowers.

I took a loop walk through the Colorado and saw the ocher pits close up.

When I got to the ocher pits, the dog clearly knew were the fun was to be found.  She jumped in the creek, took a big drink then proceeded to run all over as if to try to invite someone to play tag.  She forgot about me and went on her merry way.  Almost 10K from where I met her, I could not concern myself to knowing where she belonged.

I finished my walk in Rustrel.  There was not much town in the town.  A little snack at the cafe watching the pedal and motorcyclists come and go.  I then had enough time before my taxi to climb up to the top of the village and visit the graveyard.

The last photo was from above the town with the top of the church the only thing in view.  A quick taxi ride back to La Pyramide in Saignon and an afternoon in the sunny garden listening to the neighbors playing boules.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 6 Sivergues to Saignon

Buoux to Sivergues  then on to Saignon
10Km 4 hours Gain 450m Descent 350m

Leaving at 900 I head out for Sivergues the highest village in the Luberon, population 39. This was , again, a Waldensian village with excellent defenses.  The translation of the town name mean "six virgins".  It is said the town was founded by six virgins and a monk.

On my way I follow a river which is the only permanent water course in the Leuberon.  It is good to hear water and be on the type of forest tracks I know.

Heading up to the hamlet I pass by abandoned terrace farms.  The place is quiet and the door of the little chapel is open allowing a peek in.

Heading out for the first of the lavender cultivation areas  Sadly the flowers bloom later in the summer.  My track kept me in woods which separate lavender fields and truffle oak plantations.  Finally I reach a road and swing round a bend...

The hamlet of Roscaliere.  This house was built right into the cliff face.  Back into the woods and dowhill to another road.

I am here

Saignon is dominated by a huge rockface and there is an old fort built into the top

There is a 12th century church and I arrived in time for an omelet lunch on a patio opposite.  I just walked through the narrow streets.

I climbed up to Bellevue ,the old fort top and took in the country side. Apt is just a stones throw away.

Tonight and tomorrow I am staying at La Pyramid.

 http://www.chambresdhotes.org/english/Detailed/2325.html#top

There is a pool, yet again and a beautiful terrace overlooking the valley plains of Apt north to Mt Ventoux.  The pool is cold, the sky is hazy and there is a sleepy kitty on the garden wall.

Like Here ~ Only Different ~ Day 5 Le Grand Luberon , Lourmarin to Buoux

Lourmarin to Buoux via Fort de Buoux 11 Km allow 4 1/2 hour Gain 750m descent 515m

A little breakfast in the sun.

A car transfer to Lourmarin starts the day.  It used to be that people taking this tour waked to Buoux but this option did not allow any time in the lovely town of Lourmarin.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lourmarin

The home and burial place of Albert Camus and today home of Peter Mayle whose books on Provence really catapulted this region into favor with ex-pats.  Lourmarin is another town that was home to a Waldensian sect and burned in 1545.   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waldensian
 Today the town  is popular with film-makers and tourists.

Bonus, today is market day.  I rambled around, bought some sweet treats and olive wood for the kitchen.

Today's walk was short but it was a stiff climb up over Le Gran Leuberon.  Still hot and today there is a little wind.  The way started out through some vineyard s

and then a climb.  A series of rocky narrow trails.  I was happy to find some Pyramid Orchids

Once I gained the top it was a super steep and rocky trail down to a road leading to Fort de Buoux via the Combe des Cavaliers.

I could tell this side of the ridge has a different climate.  Trees are mossy and there are many plant types I associate with our woods at home.  

I  can feel a blister coming on.  I opted not to climb up into the fort.


http://www.tourisme-en-luberon.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=662:fort-de-buoux&Itemid=677&lang=en

Tonight I am staying at Auberge des Seguins.  A garden and pool await before dinner

 http://www.aubergedesseguins.com/Francais/visiter_EN.html

I have been advised the restaurant is wonderful, I arrived hungry.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 3 Slot Canyon Adventure

Loop hike above Merindol to the Gorges du Regalon back down to home base.
  14Km 6 hours gain 575m

Today I took a loop hike out through Merindol, up onto a high plateau then down through the Gorge du Regalon.

Meridol overlooks the Durance valley and was home to a Christian spiritual movement in the early 1500's. The original town was destroyed but the people survived by fleeing up into the hills, like I did today.  The new Merinol was built down slope from the old village and remains a center of agriculture.

The ruined town is the first stop on my hike.

The track gains up to the top of the ridge.  The vegetation appears to be like sage and rabbit brush.  Careful examination shows it is wild rosemary.

I met a lot of plants and flowers, the type of which reminds me of Kittitas County dry shrub steppe.  Wild thyme

This flower looks like a rose but has soft fuzzy leaves and no thorns.    It is Narrow leafed Cistus, Cistus de Montpelier

And of course handsome bugs galore.

The way wandered westward, gaining and losing little altitude.  In and out of trees of pine, juniper and oak.

I found three different orchids.

A reader has kindly identified these as Cephalantera damasonium, White Hellborine , Orchis purpurea , Lady Orchid , and my favorite , Limodorum arbortivum , the Violet Limodore

Regalon Gorge is narrow and in many sections you can touch both sides of the slot.  There are many signs warning of the danger.  The stones have grown quite smooth and slick over time.  When it rains it is truly dangerous.

It is in this cool damp canyon I see moss and ferns for the first time.

About 30 minutes into the canyon I noticed that the birdsong (thrushes) got very loud.  Rounding a corner I came to this magnificent cave.  Look carefully on the lower left.  The signpost is about 10 ft high.

A fun surprise all along the way was tiny white snails clinging to most everything.  It was like the were waiting for rain to revive them.

Escargot and rosemary.

The weather was cloudy and comfortable.  It sprinkled a little bit as I walked through the canyon.  Sun broke through as I finished my trail walking and I navigate on roads back to the B&B.  Tonight I have dinner at the hotel owners restaurant.

I was up there and the brink of the canyon is on the left.  The trees are olive and if you look closely you can see poppies in the ryegrass.

Tonight I am at La Bastide dou Pastre again.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 2 Avignon

Today is different from my previous walking trips, I had all day to explore Avignon before a taxi transfer to the next village.

The highlight and heart of Avignon is the Palis des Papes , the Popes Palace.  I booked my ticket weeks ago and made sure I had an audio guide as well.  A well done audio-guide adds so much to visiting a complex historic venue.  The picture below was taken from the bridge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palais_des_Papes

Just down from the palace is another iconic landmark.  Most likely you know it from a song you know but perhaps don't understand

Sur le Pont d’Avignon
L'on y danse, l'on y danse
Sur le Pont d’Avignon
L'on y danse tous en rond

On the bridge of Avignon
We all dance there, we all dance there
On the bridge of Avignon
We all dance there in a ring

the song goes on to describe the dance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pont_d%27Avignon

The original bridge spanning the Rhone was build in the late 1100's and destroyed 40 years later during the Crusades.  The rebuilt bridge of 22 spans was eventually abandoned.  The Rhone floods tended to break down the spans and the four surviving spans date to around 1345.  There is a small chapel, Saint Nicholas, on the second span.  St Nicholas is the patron saint of boatmen.

An iconic photo is possible by crossing the river on a free ferry and walking along the river.  Tis is particularly beautiful during a sunny days sunset.  Unfortunately , I was just not up to the fast crosstown walk last night.

The day started with a typical continental breakfast.  I had until 5pm to explore the town.

The Palis and audio guide was an excellent way to fill the day.  The long history of the Palis eclipses the short history of the Popes residence.  The original Palis was built in only 20 years, a remarkable feat.  During the many 100's years since it has been a garrison, prison and center of city government.

There is, of course typical tourist things like vendors, beggars and street café scene.

Neither my guide nor the hotel recommended any of the cafe or restaurants on the main plaza.  I contented myself with a goat cheese panini and later an apple puff from the bakery on my home street.  I shared the flakey pastery with the pigeons on the neighborhood square.

The carousel I knew about from Google street view.  It was more charming than can be appreciated from that view.  Two tiers and some of the horses were leapers.

Tonight and tomorrow night I am staying in Merindol at la Bastide dou Pastre

http://www.chambres-hotes.fr/chambres-hotes_la-bastide-dou-pastre_merindol_h257218_en.htm

A hour in rush hour traffic made a bit happier due to the "taxi" turning out to be a Mercedes Town car.  The hotel is with family and my room has no TV (fine) and a little private courtyard.

The sky has turned cloudy and the air is quite cool.  I met someone today that said temps in lower 20sC later this week.  Best enjoy the cool while I can.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 1 We're Taking the Train

I am calling on my inner Sheldon Cooper.

I love trains.  There is something very basic about a train ride.  This train, however, is not so very basic

It is the Euro Star.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurostar

I am off on another round of walking vacation.  A three week leave from work, a sabbatical given for my 8 year milestone.  Originally I pondered a volunteer vacation in Africa.  That journey would have required a total of six weeks and for me, I thought that was pushing it a bit too much.  That adventure goes into my "possible" 16 year leave.  I picked up and put down the idea of a volunteer vacation in Mongolia, planting trees.  I will leave sleeping in a yurt in the possibly merry month of May to the younger crowd.

Today I took the train from London St Pancras station to Paris in 2 1/2 hours.  A quick cross town transfer to Gare de Leon and in another 2 1/2 hours via the TVG High Speed Train, we are in Avignon the starting and finishing point of a one week walk in Provence.  Over the next week I am exploring the Luberon.

The trains are amazing in their speed, averaging 186mph.  They are smooth and almost silent.  In no time at all we are in the Chunnel and out the other side.  All along the way green and yellow fields of hay, rapeseed (canola) or mustard.

And tons of bugs.  The front of the train was COVERED in bugs.

Last year my walk across England was, in part, driven by the desire to see the countryside I first saw in "All Creatures Great and Small"  This time, part of my desire to visit The Luberon was sparked by two of my favorite movies; "My Fathers Glory" and "My Mothers Castle".  These are gentle movies based on Marcel Pagnols memoirs of the same name.

Provence is sliced through the middle west to east by The Petit and Grand Luberon.  This escarpment contains cliffs and forests, ocher mines and a narrow slot canyon we visit in 2 days.

Paris Gare deLyon was a noisy and crowded wait.  I did not wish to cut it to close and the 2 1/2 hour wait was a bit too long.  But so it was dash for the train and off we raced.  Into a tunnel and Bang! We were in verdant countryside.  You would not know a city like Paris was just left.  We raced down the heart of France seeing few towns.  Nothing but agriculture and cows.

I could see the Alps to the east and about 45 minutes before arrival the landscape abruptly changed to dry rocky soil.  The huge rock faced cliffs of the Luberon can be seen.  Some look like massive rock souffles.

A quick twistly neighborhood bus ride and I am dropped off at the city wall.

Avignon is a old walled city on the west end of Provence.  During the 1300's seven Popes made this city their home and center of the church.  Today the walled old city and the Palais des Papes are an UNESCO World Heritage site

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avignon

My hotel Hotel d'Angleterre in on a quiet backstreet near the city wall and a convenient walk from the shuttle bus stop.

www.hoteldangleterre.fr

I have a comfortable room and a new book from the local service detailing all my walks, my transfer and details I have to look over at dinner.

It is Monday and most of the neighborhood restaurants are closed.  I canceled the walk I had planned and went looking for one of the recommended places.  It was closed and I wound up at a place near the hotel that had terrific seafood.

Tomorrow is a full day in town.