Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 7 Le Colorado Provencal

Distance 12Km 5 1/2 hour Gain 825m descent 840m

This is a potentially messy day.  I headed out from the village of Saignon northeast towards Rustrel.  Today saw a lot of agriculture fields with Lavender and grapes again the mainstay crop.

The weather started overcast with a chance of sprinkles.  I opted to not wear my sunshirt, as no sun was to be seen.

I met a few friends along the way

The dog joined me, without invitation, about 1/2 hour walking.  She clearly knew where I was going.  She would trot ahead and often she would be standing at a trail junction.  She almost always had the correct trail selected for me.  Above we were at the north side of the ocher site.

Winding and climbing up the Colorado there are great cliff views and the landscape is dominated by Ochre.  This soft red rock contains iron oxide and for centuries have been used for making pigments.  Its wonderful pigment properties are brought into the forefront when trip notes state that any clothing staining should be brushed out, not rinsed or washed out.  I have to imagine the folks around the area know what hikers have been up to when they demonstrate their stain marks.  A slip or fall is going to leave a mark in more ways than one.

The footing was like walking in semi-soft sand.  The colors ranged from pale buff to deep pumpkin orange.  Occasionally there were dark purple streaks in the banks.

I managed the whole trip without a trip or slip.  The rain started just after the dog joined me.  As most of my walk was in the woods, I got no more damp than I would on a hot, sunny day.

I made great time, even though I moved slowly.  Spotting birds, listening to their song.  Looking for bugs and new flowers.

I took a loop walk through the Colorado and saw the ocher pits close up.

When I got to the ocher pits, the dog clearly knew were the fun was to be found.  She jumped in the creek, took a big drink then proceeded to run all over as if to try to invite someone to play tag.  She forgot about me and went on her merry way.  Almost 10K from where I met her, I could not concern myself to knowing where she belonged.

I finished my walk in Rustrel.  There was not much town in the town.  A little snack at the cafe watching the pedal and motorcyclists come and go.  I then had enough time before my taxi to climb up to the top of the village and visit the graveyard.

The last photo was from above the town with the top of the church the only thing in view.  A quick taxi ride back to La Pyramide in Saignon and an afternoon in the sunny garden listening to the neighbors playing boules.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 6 Sivergues to Saignon

Buoux to Sivergues  then on to Saignon
10Km 4 hours Gain 450m Descent 350m

Leaving at 900 I head out for Sivergues the highest village in the Luberon, population 39. This was , again, a Waldensian village with excellent defenses.  The translation of the town name mean "six virgins".  It is said the town was founded by six virgins and a monk.

On my way I follow a river which is the only permanent water course in the Leuberon.  It is good to hear water and be on the type of forest tracks I know.

Heading up to the hamlet I pass by abandoned terrace farms.  The place is quiet and the door of the little chapel is open allowing a peek in.

Heading out for the first of the lavender cultivation areas  Sadly the flowers bloom later in the summer.  My track kept me in woods which separate lavender fields and truffle oak plantations.  Finally I reach a road and swing round a bend...

The hamlet of Roscaliere.  This house was built right into the cliff face.  Back into the woods and dowhill to another road.

I am here

Saignon is dominated by a huge rockface and there is an old fort built into the top

There is a 12th century church and I arrived in time for an omelet lunch on a patio opposite.  I just walked through the narrow streets.

I climbed up to Bellevue ,the old fort top and took in the country side. Apt is just a stones throw away.

Tonight and tomorrow I am staying at La Pyramid.

 http://www.chambresdhotes.org/english/Detailed/2325.html#top

There is a pool, yet again and a beautiful terrace overlooking the valley plains of Apt north to Mt Ventoux.  The pool is cold, the sky is hazy and there is a sleepy kitty on the garden wall.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Lourmarin Market Day

Just strolling around.  Tons of food. Items for the kitchen including tablecloths, very popular with tourists.  Many stands selling dresses, skirts and hats, including Panamas from Ecuador.

Like Here ~ Only Different ~ Day 5 Le Grand Luberon , Lourmarin to Buoux

Lourmarin to Buoux via Fort de Buoux 11 Km allow 4 1/2 hour Gain 750m descent 515m

A little breakfast in the sun.

A car transfer to Lourmarin starts the day.  It used to be that people taking this tour waked to Buoux but this option did not allow any time in the lovely town of Lourmarin.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lourmarin

The home and burial place of Albert Camus and today home of Peter Mayle whose books on Provence really catapulted this region into favor with ex-pats.  Lourmarin is another town that was home to a Waldensian sect and burned in 1545.   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waldensian
 Today the town  is popular with film-makers and tourists.

Bonus, today is market day.  I rambled around, bought some sweet treats and olive wood for the kitchen.

Today's walk was short but it was a stiff climb up over Le Gran Leuberon.  Still hot and today there is a little wind.  The way started out through some vineyard s

and then a climb.  A series of rocky narrow trails.  I was happy to find some Pyramid Orchids

Once I gained the top it was a super steep and rocky trail down to a road leading to Fort de Buoux via the Combe des Cavaliers.

I could tell this side of the ridge has a different climate.  Trees are mossy and there are many plant types I associate with our woods at home.  

I  can feel a blister coming on.  I opted not to climb up into the fort.


http://www.tourisme-en-luberon.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=662:fort-de-buoux&Itemid=677&lang=en

Tonight I am staying at Auberge des Seguins.  A garden and pool await before dinner

 http://www.aubergedesseguins.com/Francais/visiter_EN.html

I have been advised the restaurant is wonderful, I arrived hungry.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 4 Merindol to Recaute

Merindol to Lauris ~ 18Km 1016m gain 918m descent allow 7 hours

Today I walked from Merindol to Recaute with a side trip to Morocco

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/For%C3%AAt_des_c%C3%A8dres_du_Luberon

I retraced my path from yesterday and headed east at the top of the plateau out into the Petit Luberon.

The way was very long, VERY hot and very rocky.  You know how I love those rocks.

I climbed and climbed so very far.  There was a plantation as a landmark.

It is a truffle plantation.  Those are truffle oaks.

I say goodbye to the Durance Valley, over and over.

I need to climb up there.

A highlight is a forest of Atlas Cedar planted in the late 19th century.  Today few Atlas Cedars remain in Morocco.  A unique woodland of cedar, pine and oak it supports diverse animal and plant life.

By the time I got up to the trail for the Cedar Forest I knew that I had to tackle this last climb.  It was 1pm and I could not check in to my room until 530.  So up I went.

 So much of the journey today reminded me if the trails around Mt Rainier.  Rocky with flowers like phlox, lousewort and penstimons.  There were plants common in gardens like red and yellow poppies, snapdragon and flax.  I even found a saprophytic plant that resembled Pinedrops.

The cedars are smallish,like all trees of harsh and dry environment.

There are also Oak trees that are evergreen.  Their leaves look more like flat Holly leaves.

Today my highlight are the bugs and butterflies.  They are everywhere.  I stopped to watch one and it took off circled back started tapping my (sweaty) back.  Camera at the ready  I held out my hand.

This fellow buzzed around me then ran into me falling to the ground.

All over butterflies of every kind.

Tonight I am staying at Chambre d'Hotes Lounis on Chemin de Recaute in Lauris outside Recaute.  It is Victory Day, a national celebration of the end of WWII in Europe.  In many villages there are community festivals and parades.  My hostess has one room and a few cats.   She is well into the retirement years and as I am writing she is fixing dinner and talking on the phone.  I know little French but I did hear a saucy word.

Perhaps she is me in 15 years.

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 3 Slot Canyon Adventure

Loop hike above Merindol to the Gorges du Regalon back down to home base.
  14Km 6 hours gain 575m

Today I took a loop hike out through Merindol, up onto a high plateau then down through the Gorge du Regalon.

Meridol overlooks the Durance valley and was home to a Christian spiritual movement in the early 1500's. The original town was destroyed but the people survived by fleeing up into the hills, like I did today.  The new Merinol was built down slope from the old village and remains a center of agriculture.

The ruined town is the first stop on my hike.

The track gains up to the top of the ridge.  The vegetation appears to be like sage and rabbit brush.  Careful examination shows it is wild rosemary.

I met a lot of plants and flowers, the type of which reminds me of Kittitas County dry shrub steppe.  Wild thyme

This flower looks like a rose but has soft fuzzy leaves and no thorns.    It is Narrow leafed Cistus, Cistus de Montpelier

And of course handsome bugs galore.

The way wandered westward, gaining and losing little altitude.  In and out of trees of pine, juniper and oak.

I found three different orchids.

A reader has kindly identified these as Cephalantera damasonium, White Hellborine , Orchis purpurea , Lady Orchid , and my favorite , Limodorum arbortivum , the Violet Limodore

Regalon Gorge is narrow and in many sections you can touch both sides of the slot.  There are many signs warning of the danger.  The stones have grown quite smooth and slick over time.  When it rains it is truly dangerous.

It is in this cool damp canyon I see moss and ferns for the first time.

About 30 minutes into the canyon I noticed that the birdsong (thrushes) got very loud.  Rounding a corner I came to this magnificent cave.  Look carefully on the lower left.  The signpost is about 10 ft high.

A fun surprise all along the way was tiny white snails clinging to most everything.  It was like the were waiting for rain to revive them.

Escargot and rosemary.

The weather was cloudy and comfortable.  It sprinkled a little bit as I walked through the canyon.  Sun broke through as I finished my trail walking and I navigate on roads back to the B&B.  Tonight I have dinner at the hotel owners restaurant.

I was up there and the brink of the canyon is on the left.  The trees are olive and if you look closely you can see poppies in the ryegrass.

Tonight I am at La Bastide dou Pastre again.