Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 6 Sivergues to Saignon

Buoux to Sivergues  then on to Saignon
10Km 4 hours Gain 450m Descent 350m

Leaving at 900 I head out for Sivergues the highest village in the Luberon, population 39. This was , again, a Waldensian village with excellent defenses.  The translation of the town name mean "six virgins".  It is said the town was founded by six virgins and a monk.

On my way I follow a river which is the only permanent water course in the Leuberon.  It is good to hear water and be on the type of forest tracks I know.

Heading up to the hamlet I pass by abandoned terrace farms.  The place is quiet and the door of the little chapel is open allowing a peek in.

Heading out for the first of the lavender cultivation areas  Sadly the flowers bloom later in the summer.  My track kept me in woods which separate lavender fields and truffle oak plantations.  Finally I reach a road and swing round a bend...

The hamlet of Roscaliere.  This house was built right into the cliff face.  Back into the woods and dowhill to another road.

I am here

Saignon is dominated by a huge rockface and there is an old fort built into the top

There is a 12th century church and I arrived in time for an omelet lunch on a patio opposite.  I just walked through the narrow streets.

I climbed up to Bellevue ,the old fort top and took in the country side. Apt is just a stones throw away.

Tonight and tomorrow I am staying at La Pyramid.

 http://www.chambresdhotes.org/english/Detailed/2325.html#top

There is a pool, yet again and a beautiful terrace overlooking the valley plains of Apt north to Mt Ventoux.  The pool is cold, the sky is hazy and there is a sleepy kitty on the garden wall.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 17 Egton Bridge to Robin Hood's Bay.

Egton Bridge to Robin Hoods Bay 16 miles / 25.7 Km 7 hours ~ Egton Bridge - Grosmont - High Bride Stone - Littlebeck  - The Hermitage - Falling Foss - THE NORTH SEA - Robin Hoods Bay.  Tonight I stay at The Villa www.thevillarhb.co.uk

Here we are, the last day.  At 7 1/2 hours this feels like the longest day.  Sixteen miles and my walking companions of the day agree that today had everything we have encountered in the last  two weeks, condensed.

I did not get out to Whitby yesterday and now I have a little regret.  The last few days I have not slept well and feel like I am at home, waking up at 5a.m.

I set out from Egton Bridge in blazing sun.  My walking companions are Geoff and Trudi from Australia.  We have shared meals and chats along the way, today we stuck together.

It is hot and sunny and thankfully this route today had some nice woods.  It wanders back and forth in the environment, and it dawned on  us that we were having a recap.

Lovely farmland

We strolled easily to Gromont and pass its historic train depot

To remind us how much we loved the Lakes district, we had about one mile of hill climb.  Up roads marked 30% Grade.

At the top, we are one again, and for the last time, in a heather moor.

Pink Bell Heather

Red Grouse and Curlew fly and call.  It was a sharp regret that the climb up was now met with a road walk down to Littlebeck.


We pass through several small hamlets which were once the center of Alum mining.  Passing through Littlebeck and into Littlebeck Woo d was a wonderful treat.  The woods were dark and cool and we had the wonderful May Beck tumbling over rocks.. Here in the woods we find The Hermitage.  A little hut carved out of an old erratic boulder.  The year 1790 is carved on the doorway.  There is a bench carved around the inside and two stone seats on top.

Falling Foss comes just in time for lunch. Waterfall and friendly Tea Garden.  It is a wonderful spot and the sound of the falls made everything feel cool.  Lemonade and ginger cake for me.

All along the way today, we had clear views of Whitby and the North Sea.  That first official glimpse was a smile moment.  Our big landmark is the Whitby Abbey, on a hill south of town.  At the edge of the sea, this ruin was the inspiration for Dracula.

You will have to view large to make out the Abby.  Our journey today seemed to have the Abbey as the pivot point.

Pushing on we finally take that momentous right turn and head south along the cliffs of the North Sea.

We sat down here for cold drinks from the cafe up the way.

My guide books firmly request a check in at my room before heading down into town for a celebration. 

Down into town is right.  One last toe crunching walk down the narrow lane.

I let my rock loose in the North Sea.  Wainwrights Bar has a ledger book to sign and I toasted the finish with a cider.  Lift a glass and bid goodbye to companions of the trail.

A trip finished  and a lifetime of memories begin.

Tomorrow I head back to London via bus and 2 trains, then home on Thursday with a ton of stinky laundry.

Cheers, everyone.  Hope you had fun.

I certainly did.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 16 Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge / Grosmont

Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge 10 miles / 16Km 4 hours ~  Blakey Ridge - Young Ralph Cross - Fat Betty - Great Fry-up Dale - Glaisdale Rigg - Glaisdale - Beggars Bridge.  Tonight I stay at Horseshoe Hotel, www.egtonbridgehotel.co.uk

The way today is easy and mostly downhill.  From 394m at Lion Inn down to double digits, 46m at Egton Bridge.  The fog and mist don't want to burn away this morning.

We start out with two crosses.  Young Ralph Cross dates back to the 1200's and was said to have been erected by a farmer called Ralph upon finding a dead traveler who was penny-less.  The current stone cross dates from the 1800's.  It is a tradition to leave a coin here.

Along the trail is Fat Betty.  A short and tubby stone cross, the trail tradition is to leave a snack and take a snack. 

The snack supply looks a bit dodgy, so I gave Betty my regards and tucked the KitKat away for later.


This site has a wonderful gallery of many walks in the region of North York Moors.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/don.burluraux/index.htm

Here you will find an index of the many crosses and stones.  Some of the stories are quite fun.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/don.burluraux/crosses.htm

We pass above Great Fry-up Dale.  A Fry-up is the traditional British Breakfast of eggs bacon beans mushrooms toast all done up in a pan.  Usually associated with a lot of calories and a lot of fat, it is not an every day thing, though it is tempting.  Can I just say, English bacon  (!!!!!)   I think I have had more eggs in the last 2 weeks than in the last year.  I will have to return to slim rations.  Servings here are monstrous.

The way continues along over rolling land and when we are on Glaisdale High Moor, if it is clear we could possibly see our first glimpse of the North Sea.  Today there is no such luck.  As we slowly descend I still cannot be sure of what I am seeing.  I was sorry to miss the pretty views.  I'm sure I will feel the joy Lewis and Clark felt when they saw the Pacific Ocean.  The heath held a few grouse families to spy on, and I also spotted a Golden Plover.

As quickly as the heather moors started a few days ago, bang they are gone.  We enter into cultivated fields and pick up the River Desk in Glaisdale.

The road tumbled down steeply through the village and at the river I went out to the rocks to get a picture of the Beggars Bridge.  This bridge comes with a legend.  A poor man named Ferris was trying to woo a girl from a higher class.  She lived on the other side of the river.  To be worthy of her, he had to improve his standing and set away to seek his fortune.  He wanted a fair well with his love, but the river Esk was so high that he could not cross, spoiling the goodbye.  As in all heroic stories, he returned successful, and used some of his money to build a bridge so that no one would ever have the misfortune to be unable to cross.

I had hoped to push on to Grosmont and the historic train depot. I will pass through there tomorrow but today was the chance to take a ride on the famous North Yorkshire Moors railway out to the seaside town of Whitby.   http://www.nymr.co.uk/  This historic railway has been featured in many TV and movie productions, including the Harry Potter series.

Today it was not to be.  I arrived without enough time to catch the 130 to the seaside town of Whitby.  I was surprised to find an old stone marker in the high moor that said the path we were on was the Whitby Road.

So it is a quiet afternoon in the sunny yard getting ready for the final 16 mile march to the sea.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 15 Clay Bank Top / Chop gate to Blakey

Chop Gate to Blakey  9 miles 4.5 hours. ~ Clay Bank Top - Carr Ridge - Urra Moor - Rosedale - Ironstone Railway - Farndale Moor - High Blakey Moor - Lion Inn.  Tonight I am staying at the Lion Inn. http://www.lionblakey.co.uk/index.htm

A day of easy walking and the route finding could not be more simple.  Anyone who can walk can do this walk and not be distressed.  A well marked trail we continue on the Cleveland Way trail.  This is part of the national trail system and is well signed.

I got a ride back up to Clay Bank Top by the owner of the Buck Inn.  Breakfast was delish, scrambled DUCK eggs.  Smooth and creamy, done slow and low.

Going to take note.

I got and early start and forced myself to move slow.  I have found when the way is difficult, I tend to take slower shorter steps.  This is actually more tiring than long bold strides.  Today is only 9 miles of almost flat walking.  Blissfully not on rough rock, but sand small stone.  The horizon is wide.  If I were to relate it, this is what the central Columbia Basin would be if it had more rainfall and was not scoured by the Brietz Floods.  I could simply stride along.

It is sunny, creeping into the low 80's.  Here on top, a gentle breeze makes it all perfect.

Where I leave the Cleveland Way, the trail makes use of the abandoned Rosedale Ironstone Railway bed.  That guarantees smooth , nearly level walking. 

There are some wonderful things to discover Along the way.  There are boundary stones along the way.  What they are the boundary of, I don't know.  They date from the 17th century.  Two of them have carvings.  One, the pointing finger... Hard to see

The other , The Face Stone, very obvious.

This is rare land, the heath moor.  Carefully managed, it is vital ecology for the Red Grouse and for other upland nesting birds.  North York Moors is the largest track of such ecology.  Signs warn of ticks, so I tuck in the pants to socks.

Trails come and go and people appear as if out of nowhere.  Mountain bikes obviously love this path.

I was thrilled to see grouse; lone males and a female with chicks in tow.

If you view large you might see the young.

I had to slow myself down.  I was on track to hit the 9 miles in 3 hours.  I didn't want to get to Lion Inn before one o'clock.    I had a sit with some gents at noon.  They were on a loop and said the usually planned a lunch stop on the trail, then a turn around at a pub, back to their car by late afternoon.  What a great country, you can do rambles like this most anywhere.  I get a sense, however, that here in Yorkshire, it is a passionate pastime.

The Inn appears out of nowhere.  From a very far distance you could see the glint of sun off cars on the road going along High Blakey Moor.

I timed it just right but still beat my bags in.  I tidied up as best I could and joined the gents I met on the trail for a pint of Old Rosey.

Well pint and half, when a gent is buying they don't take no for and answer.

I love my little room, not enough room to swing a cat, but nice everything, a comfy double bed and bliss itself,

A TUB

The Lion Inn is a top of the line inn and very isolated.  Please do visit their site.  In 2010 there was an extraordinary snowstorm which  stranded staff and two visitors for 8 days.  The pictures on the Inns web-site and in the article from the Daily Mail are something to see.  I doubt my photos will do justice.

I cannot imagine how beautiful and isolated this place must be in Winter.  On a clear night the winter stars would be spectacular.  I hope to get out tonight with my big camera and see what an eight seconds exposure will produce.  The is the first high open horizon of the trip.

http://www.lionblakey.co.uk/photossnow.htm

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1335602/UK-snow-7-trapped-Lion-Inn-pub-Yorkshire-NINE-days.html

This morning, we awake to a famous Dale top fog.  I am sure it will burn off in no time.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 9 Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Kirkby Stephen to Keld 14.5 miles 24Km 6 hours ~ Kirkby Stephen - Nine Standards Rigg - Keld.  I am staying at Keld Lodge  www.keldlodge.com



This route day comes with notes from Sherpa that there is an easy all road alternative for people suffering from agony of De'feet.  This route welcomes conventional waking shoes.  It does, however, miss one of the top attractions of the C2C

It would be a shame to miss the mysterious Nine Standards Rigg.  Nine stone pillars for which there are no official historic reference.  Most think they mark a territory border, some think they were a prank.  Others say they were put in place to be a visual representation of a mock military force.  From the valley floor they look like an ammased military force.  No matter they are a magnet for hiking visits and the routes and land in the area are worn by thousands upon thousands of feet.  At the five mile post there is an option for three routes.  Only during May to July can you climb to Nine Standards.  The ground is the introduction to peat, which will be with us the rest of the way to the North Sea.  My guide book says this is a good day for gaiters.  The Rigg marks the Pennines, the "continental divide" of England.  From here all waterways flow to the east.  If at the five mile mark you cannot see the Nine Standards due to clouds, you option is only the low level paths.

The day started drizzly in the village so I put on all my wet gear and my gaiters.  The way climbed easily out of town and it was not but an hour and I could see the Nine Standards.  Looking out around all the horizon the sky was filled with clouds dropping rain.

But it seems that the sky over us was going to bless us with a halo of blue sky the whole way.

The Nine Standards were really interesting.  Some were clearly older than the others.  Jill, a woman who ,along with her husband Richard is one the route and schedule had any interesting theory.  She said she felt like some of  the newer ones were built to carry on the tradition, perhaps multi-generationally.

Keld means "spring" in old Norse and the river here runs brown with the stain of the peat ground.  Being the head of the valley, the area surrounding the community has a number of forces ( another Norse word) small cascades of streams coming down from the hills.  Entering the village gave a good introduction to these soggy features.

The river runs brown from the tannin in the water.  Peat mud is all over my boots, which promptly went into the drying room.

We cross from Cumbria to Yorkshire today.  We are walking into and across the north area of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

It was a fabulous day!  I finally got to see a grouse butt.  Not the bird, but the rocky shooting hides.  They are regular landmarks on the map, so knowing what to look for is important.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 8 Orton to Kirkby Stephen

Orton to Kirkby Stephen 11 miles / 18Km 5 hours ~  Orton - Orton Scar - Sunbiggin  Tarn - Severals Village Settlement - Kirkby Stephen  Tonight I stay at Jolly Farmers Guest house  www.thejollyfarmers.co.uk

I have left the Lakes District NP and we are making our way along level ground.  While the distance is short, the trail is filled with many things to stop and wonder at.  Today I managed the distance in in 6 hours with a tailwind.

Just 1 mile east of Orton and fine stone circle can be seen from the trail.  Like some of the other circles, better seen from elevation.

Sunbiggin Tarn, an area of marshy ground with a small lake is an important bird sanctuary.  The early morning is always best for birding.  Unfortunately, today was not birdy.  A few gulls here and there but for the most part, no one about.  I did however find some wonderful bog loving purple orchids.

Severals Village settlement is a site currently under study.  Many say it may be one of the most important pre-historic sites in Britain. The site is unexcavated but modern technology can do a fair amount of investigation these days. .

Near are the Giants Graves, a series of long narrow mounds thought to be for penning rabbits.

This viaduct seemed to pop up out of nowhere.  Right around the bend from Several Village.

Kirkby Stephen ( say Kirby Steven) is the 2nd biggest town on route Population about 2000.  Kirkby Stephen is the spiritual heart of the C2C trail.  In 2010 the town won the Cumbria in Bloom Gold medal for its home gardens. 

There have been markets in town since 1361 and the market square floor has an old bull baiting area which was active into the early 1800's


Beautiful stone benches.

We are, for the most part, half way done. Here are all the luxuries of a town, a bank machine,  supermarket and an Indian (curry-house) restaurant.  There is an outdoor shop, the guidebooks points out, handy for restocking blister kits.

 A quirky signpost on the edge of town still lists distance in furlongs ( 8 furlongs = 1 mile)

This was the day for wind.  Dark clouds just racing past.  I popped on the rain gear from the start and the best that can be said is that it cuts down on the wind chill.

This is still sheep country but today I also got close and personal wit Aberdeen Angus cows and their little ones.

And their pies.

Anyone adverse to animals and their droppings should NOT
undertake this trip.

I could not get these little ones to give me the time of day.

No curry house today.  I got to town by 230 and spent some time getting lunch snacks then to a little bistro for late lunch.  Cold crab and a salad with veg and fruit.  Plus a big bottle of cider.

Happy me.  Late dinner will be cheese , apple and puffs crackers.

Like Here Only Different ~ Day 7 Bampton Grange to Orton

Bampton Grange to Orton 12 miles 19.5Km 5 hours   Bampton Grange , Shap Abbey, Shap , Oddendale, Robin Hood's Grave.  Tonight I stay at Scar Side Farm www.scarsidefarm.com  up the road from Orton.

This is an easy day of fairly unremarkable terrain but some choices to make on the map.  Shap Abbey will be a highlight.  The last abbey founded in England in 1199. Built by the French Premonstratensian order ( the White Canons)  founded by St Norbert in Northern France.  This was the last abbey to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540.  After the abbey was pillaged, locals used carved stonework from the building in their constructions.  The Shap Market Hall was built from abbey stone and many of the stone walls in the area contain verified stones.

The walled village of  Oddendale contains two ancient stone circles.  You can find them on Google maps, but finding them from the ground is said to be very challenging.  Robin Hoods Grave is a large cairn with certainly no Merry Men buried within.

The highlight of Orton is the church dating to 1293 and a set of pillories (stocks). A block down the road Kennedy's Chocolate Shop.  For anyone conquering the previous 5 days, a chocolate pig-out is earned.  It is likely to be great incentive to make sure I am in town before closing time.

I have left the Lakes District National Park and head right into North York NP for more ups and downs.

What a fine day this was.  The distance from yesterday was only half, about 10 miles.  I spent 6 hours walking, though.  Yesterdays distance of about 18 miles was covered in about 6 1/2.  Today was the day for slow walking.  The way went through farms and fields.  It is warm enough, but not too warm.  Slightly sunny, mostly cloudy, a bit windy.  I thought for sure it would start raining and even stopped to put on my coat.  It never happened, so was the perfect day.

There were many fine distractions.

Pretty farms buildings

Happy farm animals..

How could I not stop and try to make friends.

Shap Abbey was a beautiful sight.  So situated within the landscape that when I got upland of it, it could not be seen.  There was a farmer who clearly has permission to use the land and 2 tidy, modern free-range chicken houses looked sharply out of place near the ancient walls.  As you neared the abbey, there was a perfect river flowing under a perfect bridge.  I know that one of the pictures I took will turn out to be  favorite keeper.

It was here I encountered the first "trail angel".  Trail angels are people who provide refreshments, usually unexpected.  A large plastic bin filled with crisps (potato chips) fruit and granola bars, and drinks---including beer and cider.  Honor system in play, I pitched in 3 pounds for chips a bar and a cider.

Shaps' single main street provided a stop for a few supplies; apple for lunch, some lip balm and some very vital talcum powder.

Leaving Snap we quickly climbed a fell and were away from charming farms and sweet animals.  The fells are open range country and the plants are wild grasses and bracken.  The lush pastures of mix grass and timothy would make my horsey friends sigh.  Walking through one spot , all I could think of is how I wished I had a horse at that moment so I could have a glorious gallop up over a hill.

Those I am talking to right now understand.

This is galloping country.

Through a quarry where I spotted some interesting shorebirds to be puzzled over on the computer when I get home.  I brought my binoculars, but they are so heavy to wear every day that I will have to save these birds for when I get home and can view them on the big screen.

I didn't enter Oddendale but did walk out to the stone circle.  I could see where the circle was on the approach , but once you got into it, poof it was gone.  Very unlike yesterdays circle.  You can see this circle on Google maps.  Give it a try...Oddendale should get you near.  I bet you will spot the trail, too.  Happy hunting.

The land on the fell was built on limestone.  It erupts from the ground looking like long planks of Swiss Cheese.  Time and weather wears it away.  Who knows, thousands of years from now they could be tall hoodoos.  Our map showed two trees as a distant reference point.  When I got there, the trees were surrounded by this limestone.

I zipped through Robin Hoods Grave, a odd area of a deep area that looks like it had sunk and rocks fell in.

Right before getting to Scar  Side Farm, I had to stop while crossing a farmers land.  He and his wife were rounding up a small herd of sheep using an ATV and a bit of shouting and hand waving.  It was a fun diversion (and foot rest).  Darn me I didn't think of getting pictures, just enjoyed the entertainment.

Settled is as the only guest of the night.  I walked into town , about 1 mile.  It was a vital priority to visit the chocolate shop.  I was way early for dinner, so enjoyed a pint of cider and chatted with a couple from Australia.  We all pitched in to help another couple solve a crossword puzzle.  Chicken Balti for dinner.  Ahhh, spices.

For dessert

A SOAK IN A REAL BATHTUB!

Well,OK, I also have a chocolate caramel bar from Kennedy's.