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Saturday, May 17, 2014

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 4b Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove

Pendeen Watch to Lands End 13 miles  I stay at Weavers B&B in Trevescan

The trail today is a trip back through time.  The start takes me back past the Geevor Tin mine and along the path we come to the Levant Mine then the Crown Mine.

Then we go further back in history to the ruined Kenidjack Castle.


The castle bits are the high rocks, the structures are yet more mining relics.

The coast is dotted with these old settlements and outposts.  With clear evidence of important resources nearby ( the mines) this wild area was clearly worth defending.   It provided all the tin ore in the known world in ancient times and the mines remained active until South American resources became commercially viable.  You can see many of the mine relics on Google Maps / Earth.  From Lands End north to Pendeen you can see many round structures.  The are not stone circles, the are open air shafts.

The authorities made sure we were aware.

Poor Mr Stickman.

 I kept my ears open for birdsong and calls.  The rare Chough nests someplace ( secret ) in the region and can be seen from here.  A heritage breed cow has been brought here for grazing to help maintain the diversity of the plant environment.  I saw some unique looking bovines, but no black crow with red legs.

Next stop is Cape Cornwall, once thought to be the most westerly point.  Bronze Age artifacts have been found here.  Ruins of St Helens Chapel, a medieval building are here as well.  Further along the Ballow Barrow . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballowall_Barrow  an ancient burial chamber.

Unfortunately, the Ballowall Barrow was not really viewable from the ground level.  Photos I have seen look like the were taken from above.  While at this spot I stopped and chatted with these ladies and patted there little mare.

Finally a long sweeping walk to Sennen Cove.  The beach here invites sand walking, the first opportunity since St Ives.  Once to Sennen Cove it is just a small hop to Lands End, the end of todays walk.  I am staying at the crossroads about 1/2 mile away.

Haahaahaa. I pre-wrote that bit based on my guide notes.  The way today was a mix of good footing, ups and downs and rocky bits.  I thought very carefully about how I was feeling and how far I had to go.  I decided to divert into St Just, about 1 1/2 extra miles,  to visit the only ATM between here and trips end.  I decided to get a dinner of bread, salami,cheese apple and wine.  The dinner options from tonight's place is about a 2  mile round trip walk.

The way from St Just (pavement) then a tough bit of up and down with a fair amount of rock and boulder scramble.  The way above the beach at Sennen Cove was soft sand.  That is always a challenge to walk in, particularly in hiking boots.

By the time I got to Sennen Cove I was ready for this.

That is Cape Cornwall, the little land knob on the left, about 8 miles away.  The sandy beaches (along the right in the shot) were crammed full as the weather is still stunningly hot.  The cove is a working crabbing center.

This is today's new plant, an invasive called Hottentot Fig.  It likes the sandy dune area so it is new to the trail.

Lands End has been built up with all the usual frivolous touristy things which my guide book says detract from the natural beauty of the place.  

I agree, I could not get out of the complex fast enough.

I am totally content in this little B&B.  The room is big and the bathroom is massive.  It has A TUB!  Also a power shower-head.  Drying rack and hanging rack will allow hand washing my walking clothes ready for tomorrow.

We are turning left and heading easterly along the English Channel.  The environment will get curious as we are heading into a rain shadow area a plants will stray towards the tropical.  I saw palm trees and plants that were clearly tropical in the gardens in St Just.

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