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Sunday, May 18, 2014

Like Here, Only Different ~ Day 5b Sennen Cove to Porthcurno

Sennen Cove to Porthcurno 6 miles Lands End , Porthgwarra ,St Levans Church, Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, Minack Theater, Porthcurno.  I stay at SeaView House


This is a fast day and there is a ton of things to see and do.  The way holds a lot of promise of nature spotting as Gray Seals play hide n seek in the waves.  All along this stretch the waves have formed land bridges and arches carved over the eons of time.

I am glad I returned to the trail exactly at Land's End.  I turned left and started down the trail.  I heard a bird chattering and there was a Chough!  These rare birds have been holding on in the areas east in Devon.  Recently they have been reintroduced to Cornwall.

 A small, slim Crow-like bird with a bright red, curved bill and bright red legs.  This bird had leg rings on for identification.

The bird goose-steped around and probed and flipped the turf looking for food.  The whole time chattering away.  I am sure as soon as the crowds showed up he would have pushed off to quieter ground.

The way is short and fast and Porthcurno comes up quickly.   I strolled along as slow as I could.  I sat and watched a Navy  helicopter do a rescue drill far off shore.  They lifted a stretcher up to the chopper and later I saw them lowering a man on to a smaller craft.

It is probable that this chopper was attached to the same unit that Prince William flew for.

As you can see, the weather is a touch cooler and there is a fine fog and light clouds are moving in.  I was able to walk without my sun shirt and it was fresh and comfortable.

The coastline here is noticeably different.  We are in the English Channel, but barely.  The waves don't roll in as strongly as they did further north.  All along this stretch, caves and pillars have been carved.  There were no further mine relics, but there was a remnant Iron Age fortress just south of Lands End.

I managed to dawdle enough to get to Porthgwarra at noon.  This was a pretty little cove with a patch of sand, a dozen or so houses to let and the "little place that sells cake".  This gives you a feeling for what some of the trails are like.  They are somewhat narrow and skirt right along the edges of the cliffs.  There is no fence.

I had a slice of farmhouse cake. A stout vanilla cake with raisins and strawberries.  A nice latte and a chat I whittled down the clock.  It was delish and I have a source for preserved strawberries, so this cake goes in my mental "to-do" list.

The door if the shack had a sightings board reporting today's sightings of birds and sea mammals.

Walking away from the cafe I knew I only had a mile or so of easy walk to go..  My lodgings would not be ready until four.  I could see St Levans Church and took the permissive path from the main trail to visit.

Here St Levans Church, a 12th century structure promises medieval Celtic carvings decorating the pews.  Some are more contemporary, to blend in , but sea creatures are the main subjects.

The Porthcourno Telegraph Museum tells the story of the laying of the first trans-Atlantic telegraph cable.  It landed here.  There are also an underground WWII communication center was here.  Sadly, however, the museum itself is closed for a remodel.

Minack Theatre is a unique venue.  The amphitheater was carved from the stone hillside and outdoor theatre productions take place in the spring and summer.  Tonight it is dark as they get ready to start a new production tomorrow.  Just my luck, right?  But there is a pretty garden with some unique plants.

It is Sunday and that means Sunday Roast at the pub. Typically this is roast meats and chicken, Yorkshire Pudding and vegetables and potatoes.  It was OK, though I wish I had chosen pork over beef.  I had a nice chat with two ladies who are also staying at the B&B.

The weather is changing and it is the land here that will decide what happens.  This small strip of land is a type of banana belt, so I will have to carry my poncho the next two days.

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